Some Background to Namibia

Speaking from the perspective of someone who first visited Africa only recently, I realise that it is almost impossible to imagine the sounds, smells and sights of the bush. I think to those of you who have never been a short description of all the various areas Ill be visiting will be helpful.

Im not a talented wordsmith (as evidenced by my use of the word 'wordsmith'), so Ill try and use picture from my (2010) trip (mostly things no one will have seen before), and perhaps some videos to help



So let me just describe some things about Namibia in general before we get into details.

After you've seen your first herd of Zebra running away from your descending plane, it wont be long before you see more wildlife. In fact we saw a troop of Baboons running across the road right outside the city.


The first thing you notice, is how the wild landscape stretches out with very little sign of human interference.

Just outside Windhoek

The three kids walking in the Namib. Sesriem canyon in the distance.

For wildlife novices such as ourselves (not any more of course!), there are endless little things worth stopping the car for. Termite mounds, squirrels, strange plants, herds of Springbok or just spectacular views.

Stopping to check some weird plants

The roads are pretty decent, though only a small percentage are tarred. The rest are sandy gravel, and are kept in good condition. Its important to drive slowly - we had a rock fly into the window and crack it.

Another good reason to drive slowly is the dust. You will kick up dust, and if you see another car approaching - close your windows.

Animals are everywhere, listen to the advice of locals; if a sign says elephants in the area then believe it and adjust your behaviour.

Elephant sign in Damaraland

Most animals arent dangerous enough to vehicles to deserve a sign, but you will still see evidence for their presence everywhere.

Snake track in the Namib

Leopard spoor - Mundulea

As interesting as signs and spoor are (believe me spoor is very interesting), most people want to see the real thing. Not to worry, you have a good chance that your camp is frequented by Jackals or Hyenas looking for some easy snacks.

This particular Jackal creeped me and Thierry (my brother) out. Having never had to deal with a wild animal before and being in the pitch black probably meant we over-reacted slightly. Anyway, like a good tourist I took a flash picture of the Jackal as it sat staring at us. I started thinking; 'oh my god the flash must have p***ed him off' and began retreating to our hut. It followed us onto the walkway and we started running. Reaching our door we struggled mightily to put the key in and imagined the Jackal approaching behind us. Of course... it was nowhere to be found and apparently is relatively harmless. Lesson learnt.


On a more positive note; I can safely described an exhilarating situation in which we did do the right thing. This happened in the Etosha National Park (which Ill describe in more detail later).
Driving along the road casually we heard the trumpet of an Elephant. This only happens in extreme situations, extreme happiness or distress. If you've never heard this so suddenly in the wild then you cannot imagine how loud and hair-raising it is. Luckily for you, I managed to record some.

Why has this happened? Well shortly afterwards a Rhino sprinted out of the bushes at surprising speed. Then, slowly a huge Elephant herd emerged out of the bush onto the road. The matriarch had oestrus streaming down her face and was obviously in heat; this means she is particularly cranky. We turned the engine off and watched in awe as they crossed, guarding their kids and eyeing us suspiciously.

Matriarch in heat

Herd crossing, kids huddled safely

Animal signs are necessary. Larger animals such as the Pachyderms above can cause serious damage. Animals tend to view vehicles as large animals that dont harm them so will leave you alone and are also pretty relaxed. As soon as you get out they see a threat and will probably run.

In short Namibia is awesomely wild, desolate and beautiful.

View over Mundulea

Emiel,
P.S. Click on the pictures for a larger version!