Back in Windhoek

Did I mention that I saw a Black Rhino stare down an Elephant bull in Etosha? Well I did. After a short stand off the rhino stepped forward and scared off the elephant which was probably more than twice its size.

Goches/Ganas is a 6000ha reserve, and they’ve introduced a few species of animals that are not native here, which annoys me and I know Bruno would disapprove of it. Not all reserves can be as conservation-minded as Mundulea, and often luring guests is more important. Still, it’s a beautifully mountainous landscape in the Khomas highlands, Windhoek lies in a valley only 20km north.

Last night we went on a game drive and saw two white rhinos, which was nice, and watched an incredible sunset. This morning I went for a walk on my own, eventually reaching the reserve fence before looping back. I followed a dry riverbed for the most part and saw quite a few animals, scared of people as everywhere despite being habituated to cars. One baboon wasn’t paying attention and I watched him feeding from 10m, completely oblivious even as his troopmates fled and screamed. He was biting the bark off a tree and licking up a thick resin that leaked from it.

Im now in Windhoek in the Rivendell guesthouse where I begin this journey and also stayed last year. Ive said goodbye to my family. Ive done some shopping and having spent many months now in subsistence lands in the Caprivi, and then rural farmland around Otavi it is striking how wealthy people here are. The abundance of foods in the supermarket and many shops selling luxury perfumes and electronics is startling and frankly makes me feel a little bad. Im getting a slight headache from the traffic sounds and the occasional plane passing over head. After this mornings walk, which was a beautiful last immersion into the bush, the city is a disgustingly unnatural place. Im just happy that tomorrow I am able to return to the wilderness for the final 2 weeks.